Plumbing questions, answered.

We're a licensed plumbing company specialising in water heaters, tankless water heaters, and boilers. We also handle faucet and valve repair, tub and shower valves, outside hose bibs, water pressure and regulator work, water hammer, leak location and repair, drain pipe repair and installation, sprinkler backflow devices, and whole-house water re-pipes.

Boilers and tankless water heaters. They're the systems a lot of companies would rather avoid, and they're exactly what we do best — right alongside standard tank water heaters.

We serve Colorado Springs, Monument, Palmer Lake, Security-Widefield, and communities within roughly 20 miles of Colorado Springs. Call us at (719) 233-3210 or visit our Service Areas page if you're not sure whether you're in our area.

Yes. Work is performed under Master Plumber license MP.00189815, and we also hold a Mechanic IV HVAC Service Tech license (#9570). We're fully insured.

We're open Monday to Friday, 8am to 5pm, and closed Saturday and Sunday.

Our hours are Monday to Friday, 8am to 5pm, and we're closed weekends. You can leave a message or submit the form on this site any time and we'll follow up on the next business day.

DeWalt Plumbing Services has been serving the Colorado Springs area since February 2010.

Paul DeWalt, our owner and president, is personally involved in the work. The person who quotes your job is the person who stands behind it.

Yes — estimates are free for most work. If your issue needs real diagnostic time to pin down, we'll tell you what that costs before we start.

Call or text (719) 233-3210 during business hours, or request a quote through the form on this site any time.

Yes. We're licensed and permitted for the work we do — including water heater and boiler installations and sprinkler backflow devices, where permits are required.

If the tank itself is leaking, replacement is the only real fix. If it's a thermocouple, gas valve, heating element, or thermostat on an otherwise sound tank, a repair usually makes sense. Age matters too — most tanks last 8 to 12 years, and Colorado Springs' hard water can shorten that.

Typically 8 to 12 years for a tank unit. Our water is hard, so sediment collects in the bottom of the tank — flushing it once a year meaningfully extends its life.

On a gas unit it's usually the pilot, thermocouple, or gas control valve. On electric it's usually a heating element or thermostat. Sometimes it's simply a tripped breaker or a closed gas valve. We diagnose it rather than guess.

Shut off the water supply to the heater and call us. Water at the base often means the tank has failed internally, which isn't repairable — but it can also be a fitting, the T&P valve, or the drain valve, which is well worth confirming before you buy a new unit.

It depends on how many people and bathrooms you have and when your hot water demand peaks. We size it to your household rather than just matching whatever happened to be there before.

Yes. Gas appliances have to be rated and set up correctly for our altitude to burn cleanly and vent safely. It's a detail that gets missed and it matters — we handle it as part of the installation.

About once a year in our area. Our water is hard, and sediment buildup makes the unit run hotter, louder, and fail sooner.

That's usually sediment on the bottom of the tank boiling under the burner. A flush often quiets it down. If it's severe and the tank is old, it can be a sign the unit is near the end of its life.

If you want endless hot water, a longer service life, and a much smaller footprint, yes. They cost more up front and they need annual descaling in a hard-water area like ours, but a well-maintained unit typically outlasts two tank heaters.

It heats on demand, so it won't run out — but it does have a flow-rate limit. If it's undersized for the number of fixtures running at once, the temperature drops. Correct sizing is the whole ballgame.

Yes — they should be descaled and flushed roughly once a year here because of our hard water. Skipping it is the fastest way to ruin an expensive unit.

Usually, yes — but it's more than a straight swap. Gas line sizing, venting, and condensate all have to be right. We'll look at your setup and tell you honestly what the conversion involves.

Both. Tankless is one of our specialties — error codes, flow problems, scale, ignition and venting faults included.

Yes — boilers are one of our two specialties. We service, repair, and replace residential boilers, including the hydronic heating side.

Common causes are a failed circulator pump, air trapped in the loop, a bad thermostat or aquastat, low system pressure, or an ignition or flame-sensing fault. We diagnose it properly before quoting parts.

Most residential systems sit around 12 to 15 psi when cold. If yours is climbing, dropping, or pushing water out of the relief valve, something needs attention — call us before it turns into a leak.

A well-maintained boiler often runs 15 to 25 years. Annual service is what gets you to the top of that range.

If the heat exchanger is leaking, the unit is badly corroded, or repair costs keep stacking up, replacement is usually the smarter money. We'll show you the numbers instead of pushing a sale.

Before heating season — late summer or early fall. It's far better to find a problem in September than during the first cold snap.

Yes — most drips come down to a worn cartridge, seat, or O-ring. We repair when the fixture is worth saving and replace it when it isn't, and we'll tell you which is which.

Usually yes. Many tub and shower valves can be rebuilt with the correct cartridge. If the valve body is failing or the parts are obsolete, we replace the valve.

Yes, and it's common here after a hard freeze. We replace hose bibs and can upgrade you to a frost-free version so it doesn't happen again.

Either works. We're happy to install a fixture you've already chosen, or source a solid one for you — and we'll be honest about which brands actually hold up.

Yes — bathroom sink, vanity, laundry, and utility faucets are all standard work for us.

Yes. Pressure above roughly 80 psi shortens the life of every fixture, appliance, and connection in the house and can cause leaks outright. The fix is usually a properly set pressure-reducing valve.

It's a valve that reduces incoming city pressure to a safe level for your home. Signs of failure include pressure that's far too high or too low, large swings, banging pipes, and running toilets. We test it and replace it if it's out of spec.

A fast-closing valve slamming moving water to a stop, usually made worse by high pressure or poorly supported pipe. We track down the cause and correct it, whether that's arrestors, pressure correction, or properly securing the line.

Yes — that's part of the job. Wet drywall, a warm spot on the floor, a meter that creeps with everything shut off, or a sudden jump in your bill are all clues we use to locate it.

We locate it first, then walk you through the options — a spot repair versus re-routing the line — with the cost of each before anything gets opened up.

Absolutely — every homeowner should. It's usually where the line enters the house or near the water heater. Ask us while we're out and we'll show you, and make sure it actually works.

It's replacing the water supply piping throughout the home — usually because the original galvanized or polybutylene pipe is corroding, restricting flow, or leaking repeatedly. Done properly, it's a one-time fix.

Rusty or discoloured water, pressure that keeps getting worse, repeated pinhole leaks, and visibly corroded galvanized pipe are the usual signs.

Yes — we repair and install drain piping, including replacing failed sections and correcting improper installations.

Yes — we repair, install, and permit sprinkler backflow prevention devices.

It stops irrigation water — and whatever is in your yard — from being siphoned back into your drinking water. It's required, and it needs to actually be working, not just present.

Every job is quoted per case — call (719) 233-3210 or send us the quote form and you'll get a clear number before any work starts.

Estimates are free for most work. If your issue needs real diagnostic time, we'll tell you that cost up front.

Because scope and quality vary — equipment grade, correct altitude setup, venting, permits, and whether the underlying cause is actually addressed. We spell out what's included so you can compare fairly.

Yes — our labour is warrantied, and new equipment carries its manufacturer warranty on top of that. Ask us for the specifics on your job.

Cash, check, and major credit and debit cards.

Often within a day or two. Call early in the day for the best chance at the soonest available slot.

Yes. We schedule inside our Monday to Friday, 8am to 5pm window and let you know when to expect us.

Clear access to the water heater, boiler, or fixture if you can, and if something is actively leaking, shut off the water to it. That's all we need.

We'd like someone 18 or older there to approve the work and provide access. If that's difficult, ask us — we can often work something out.

Yes. We leave the work area clean and haul away the old equipment.

It leaves scale and sediment behind — in water heater tanks, tankless heat exchangers, faucet cartridges, and fixture screens. Annual flushing and descaling is the single most valuable thing you can do for equipment here.

Flush the water heater, descale a tankless unit, have the boiler serviced before heating season, and check your water pressure. That short list prevents most of the calls we get.

Disconnect hoses before the first freeze, shut off and drain exterior lines, insulate pipe in unheated spaces, and consider frost-free hose bibs. Winter here is hard on exterior plumbing.

Shut off the main water supply, or at minimum the supply to the water heater and washing machine. A small leak turns into a big loss when nobody's home.

Once a year is plenty. An inexpensive gauge on a hose bib tells you a lot — and if it reads high, a regulator is probably due.